HISTORY OF ZHOB

General Description Of The District Zhob

1. GEOGRAPHY

1.1 Name, Location, Boundary and Area

Under the British rule, in 1890, Zhob was formed as Political Agency. It derives its name from the Zhob River, which flows near Zhob town. The Pushto expression Zhob denotes 'oozing water', a reference perhaps to the spring which constitutes the source of Zhob River. The district, as well as the town, acquired the name Zhob in 1975. Previously it was known as Fort Sandeman, in deference to Sir Robert Sandeman, then Agent to the Governor General in Balochistan, who extended the British rule in the region.

The district lies between 30 ° 30¢ to 32 ° 05¢ north latitudes and 67 ° 26¢ to 70 ° 00¢  east longitudes. It is bounded on the north by Afghanistan and South Wazirestan agency of FATA, on the east by the tribal area adjoining Dera- Ismail -Khan district of NWFP and Musakhel district, on the south and south-west by Loralai and Killa Saifullah districts. Total area of district is 20297 square kilometers.

1.2 PHYSICAL FEAURES/TOPOGRAPHY

Topographically, the district is covered with mountains and hills intersected by the broad valley of Zhob and its tributaries. The Toba- Kakar range covers the western half of the district extending from the boundary of Afghanistan up to the Zhob River. The Suleman range locally called as the Kas-e_Ghar lies on the eastern boundary of the district. The famous Takht-I-Sulaiman or Solomon's. Throne is the highest peak of this range. It is about 3441 meters above sea level and located just outside the boundary. The Sindh Ghar, Tor Ghar and Sur Ghar ranges are also situated in the eastern side of the district. The two mountainous regions are of different character. The great part of the district, beyond the left bank of the Zhob, consists almost entirely beyond the district boundary. The general elevation of the district is 1500 to 3000 meters.

 On the south of Zhob valley, a succession of parallel ridges running from north-east to south-west divide the drainage of the Zhob from that of the Bori valley in the Loralai district.

1.3  RIVERS AND STREAMS

The two principal drainage channels of the district are the Zhob and the Kundar Rivers, both flow into the Gomal River. The general direction of the rivers is from Southwest to northeast. The Zhob River rises at Tsari Mehtarazai pass, the watershed a distance of about 400 kilometers. The broad plain of the Zhob River is occupied by the alluvial formation. The Kundar River rises from the central and highest point of the TobaKakar range, a few kilometers northeast of the Sakir. It constitutes boundary between Pakistan and Afghanistan territory for a considerable length.

The other subsidiary rivers or streams are the Baskan, Chukhan, Sri Toi, Sawar, Surab, etc.

1.4  CLIMATE

 The climate of the district is hot and dry in summer and cold in winter. June is the hottest month with mean maximum and minimum temperature of about 37°C and 23°C respectively. January is the coldest month with mean maximum and minimum temperature of about 13°C and -1°C degree respectively. The dust- storms occur in summer from July to September accompanied by thunderstorms. In winters the wind blows from the west and is very cold. The winds from the Southwest and east are also common,  the later invariably brings rain. The wind from the north occasionally blows during September to April bring drought and damage standing crops. Rainfall is scanty and varies with the altitude. Most of the rainfall is received during winter seasons.

1.5  FLORA

 Principal trees and plants found in Zhob district are wild olive (shinay), pistachio, chilgoza or edible pine and wild almond in high lands. Other trees include willow, tamarisk (along the embeds of streams) pastawana (grewia oppostifolio) and spalnai (calotropis gigantea).

1.6 FAUNA

 Wild animal are wolves, jackal, hyena, fox, deer and porcupine. Leopards and black bear are occasionally found in the high hills in Suleman range. Wild pigs are seen along Zhob River while straight horned markhor, wild sheep are present in moderate numbers in Shinghar Mountains.

Among the game bird chakor, partridge and pigeon are numerous in higher altitudes. Sand grouse, quail and bustard are found in plains.

Other birds are dove, hoopoe, and starling and vegetal. Jay black bird, wood pigeon, cuckoo and thrush live in high ranges while wild duck and pelican are seen along the Zhob River in winter.

Snake and scorpion are common everywhere in Zhob. Fish (Mahsir) are found in every running stream and in Zhob River, some of which weigh up to 8 lbs.

2.  AGRICULTURE AND RELATED SECTORS

2.1. Agriculture

 Most part the area is hilly and barren with every limited water resources for agriculture purposes. However, during recent years tube wells have become quite abundant with the result that agricultural activity has registered a rise and a total of 36170 acre of land is under cultivation in the district. Sowing and harvesting are still largely carried out in traditional manner but the use of agricultural machinery is increasing day by day. However, there is very little scope for a radical increase in the area under cultivation as the area is mostly "Barani". There are two cropping seasons, Kharif and Rabi. Rabi crops are sown between October and mid February and harvested in June. Kharif crops are sown from April to July and harvested by the end of October.

2.2.  Irrigation

Only 16,206 acres of land is irrigated throughout the district. Majority of the area in the district is irrigated by springs. The following forms of irrigation are found in the district:

1. Perennial Irrigation Schemes -                             352. Flood Irrigation Schemes -                                    103. Delay Action Dam/Storage Dam -                        54. Flood Protection Schemes -                                   6

2.3. Forestry

The district has big potential for social and natural forestry and vegetation cover in the district is quite extensive. There are two forest reserves in the district. The total area under forest cover (including social forest) is around 10,010 hectares. Commercial forestry in the district is for the production of pine nut and timber. The pine- nut forests are very profitable. Commercial forestry or cutting of timber for commercial purposes exists in Sherani sub-division.

2.4.  Horticulture

Grapes are grown in abundance on the foothills of the mountains. Other is almond, apricot and apple.

2.5.  Livestock

Livestock raising is an important source of livelihood for the rural population and this has a great potential. There are four veterinary hospitals in the district, with 57 veterinary dispensaries. There is also one Artificial Insemination Center (A.I) and one Disease Investigation Laboratory (D.I.L).

3. INDUSTRY TRADE

3.1 Industry

 Apart from two flourmills located in Zhob town, no industry worth the name exist in the district.

3.2 Mining

 No mineral extraction activity worth mentioning exists in the district.

4.  COMMUNICATION

Zhob is linked by air with major cities of the country. A fokker flight operate from Quetta linking Zhob with Multan, Dera Ismail Khan, Peshawar and Islamabad.  Zhob is 320kilometers from Quetta, 225 kilometer from Dera Ismail Khan. However, the road linking with Dera Ismail Khan is for most part a dirt track passing through water streams and only 48 kilometers is metalloid.

The poor condition of the road acts as a deterrent for an increase in inter-provincial transportation and commercial exploitation of the route. The narrow railway linking Quetta with Zhob became moribund in 1984 and the service is no longer available. While it functioned, the railway was a romantic reminder of yesteryears highest railway-station of the country, enroute namely Kan Mehtarzai (altitude 2800 meters). The total length of the track of the track was 295 kilometers with 11 railway stations on the way.

A radio station is functioning at Zhob, broadcast from which are widely listened to in the district to in the district. In the urban television sets are common. The signal is transmitted from the booster located at Loralai. The use of dish antennas is also growing.

Zhob is linked through the Nation Wide Dialing system to the country and other telecommunication facilities such fax and telegraph are also available.

Postal service in Zhob is based on departmental arrangements. There are three departmental post offices at Zhob City, Zhob GPO and Qamardin Karez respectively. There are nine extra-departmental branches one each at Killi Appozai, Killi Ibrahim Khel, Kili Gohar Appozai, Killi Lowara, Mani Kwa, Mir Ali Khel, Sambaza, Shinghar and Sharan Jogezai.

5.  TRADE AND TRADE CENTERS

Trade and trading activity in the district is largely in the informal sector because of proximity with Afghanistan. Regular formal trade is relatively limited and mostly confined to consumable items.

6. HISTORY, ETHNICITY/TRIBES AND CULTURE

6.1. History

Zhob claims historical significance as being the cradle of Afghan race. Qais Abdul Rashid who is believed to be the progenitor of Pashtoons or Afghans is said to have lived around the vicinity of Suleman Mountains near Zhob.

The inhabitants of Zhob valley gave tough resistance to Mehmood Ghazni, when he initiated his raids on India. Later, however they joined ranks with him. Subsequently the area came under the rule of Nadir Shah and later Ahmed Shah Abdali. Zhob remained under the rule of Durranis and Barakzais till British captured it. Preceding this event was a period of fifty years of anarchy when Zhob was dubbed as 'Yaghistan" or the  land of the rebels.

Sir Robert Sandeman, the first Agent to the governor General in Balochistan occupied Zhob in 1889 extending his forward policy to the region with the subjugation of the tribes inhabiting the Suleman range and occupation and control of numerous passes through it to the south. He also secured the great Gomal pass and the carvanic routes to Ghazani and Kandhar. Captain 1 Mac Ivor had been appointed the first political agent in Zhob with formation as the Political Agency in 1890. Zhob district is the second oldest existing district of Balochistan, after Quetta.

6.2.  Ethnicity And Tribes

The district is inhabited by Mandokhels, Kakars, and Sheranis, Haripals, Babars, Lawoons, Khosty and Syeds. Sulemankhels, Nasars, Kharots and other smaller tribes of Afghan origin are also present.

6.3. Food

Majority of the people have two meals daily, one in the morning and other sunset. Only well to do families have a third meal. An average meal consist of Nan, locally called "Marai" with pulses, vegetables/meat broth and butter milk (Lassi). Consumption of Landhi or dried meat is common during winters. Sheep are specially fattened for slaughter for preparing "Landhi".

6.4.  Dress And Ornaments

The majority of the male population wears shalwar kameez and a turban to cover their heads both in summer and in winter with a chadder (piece of cloth) slung across the shoulders. The women wear a wrapper and a long shirt reaching to the knees. Women belonging to the middle and upper classes dress in the manner of other urban women in the province and also wear gold ornaments.

6.5. Dwelling

 Apart from Zhob town where brick masonry is common majority of the house the district are constructed using locally available material such as stone, clay and baked bricks with mud topping on the roofs which are either supported by wooden beams iron girders. In rural areas a courtyard may enclose a number of the houses, both for reasons of safety and social affinity.

6.6. Occupations

Animal husbandry, small-scale farming and Government service are the major occupations. The Mandokkhels are an enterprising lot who dominate the realm of Government contractor-ship in Balochistan and as far away as Karachi and Islamabad, while numerous members of the Shirani tribe are serving in the Gulf countries, mostly as laborers.

7.  CULTURE, CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS

The dominating life style is still nomadic with scattered mud huts for seasonal habitation where summer is spent in highlands and winters in lower plains feeding cattle in tribal reserved pastures. The people are deeply religious and their lives are marked by strict adherence to tribal norms and values. Marriages at puberty is fairly common and neither the groom nor the bride has any say in the selection of their would be mates. The families of the bride and bridegroom decide all matters. Exchanging of girls among the tribes is called "tsarai". Through a girl is valuable asset in an Afghanistan family by virtue of the bride price that she fetches yet no joy attends her birth while the birth of a baby boy is celebrated in a joyous manner with the offering of shots in the air. 

The system of Vuvar (bride price) is widely practiced in the district. The groom pays money for a proposal to the guardians/parents of the girl. The amount of vulvar varies from case to case. In case of close family marriages, the amount may be smaller waived altogether. A marriage is regarded as a way to strengthen tribal or family relations. Sometimes marriages are used to settle tribal or friend; food is supplied to the deceased's household for two to three days.

A high order of social cooperation exists among the people both on occasions of happiness and sorrow. In case of death of a relative neighbor or friend, food is supplied to the deceased's household for two to three days.

Majority of the people living in Zhob district belongs to the Sunni sect of Islam with a marginal number of people belonging to the Shia sect of Islam.

There are two major channels for conflict resolution in the district namely the traditional/tribal and the government/institutional. The traditional /tribal channel however, has proved more effective than the latter. In the past the jirga system operate in the region which was proved more effective than the latter. In the Past the Jirga system operated in the region which was the traditional system where by tribal elders sat together to settle disputes and mete out justice to offenders. The system stands annulled by a decision of the Supreme Court of Pakistan in 1991. The Government however, still forms informal jirgas (comprising notable's etc) for conflict resolution, as they have proven to be very effective.

8. IMPORTANT/HISTORICAL PLACES

8.1. Zhob Town

Zhob situated at a distance of 320 kilometers from Quetta was previously called Fort Sandeman. It still contains relics that harkens back to its grand past, one is the Zhob Militia mess and the other is the officials residence of Political Agent, Zhob known as the "castle". The British cemetery at Zhob, which was another reminder of the "Raj", has been vandalized and lies in ruins.

8.2. Shrines

There are two well-known shrines in the district. One belongs to Hazrat Nazar Nika at six kilometers from Zhob and the other to Hazrat Khostu Baba 100 kilometers from Zhob in the direction of Wazirestan. Two other shrines are Zakoo Nika near Zhob and Palwan Baba in the Mughalkot area. Visits to shrines are not common in Zhob. There are no shrines in the district where regular "urs" (annual celebrations" are observed.

The tomb of Qais Rashid on the top of Sulman Mountains is also a place to visit. People who reach the top take goats for sacrifice for the fulfillment of their wishes/prayers.

8.3. Historical And Archeological Sites

A number of mounds, ruins, and caves dot the expanse of the district, which have historical and archeological importance. The general consensus among most experts is that they belong to the Mughal period.

The region is rife with many legends. One legend relates that on their way back to Palestine, Prophet Suleman was requested by his newly wed Indian bride who was a princess that she be allowed to take a last look at her ancestral land India and Soloman Landed his "takht" or flying throne on the mountains.

Paryan-o-Ghundi, which means a hill of fairies, is at two miles distance to the west of Zhob town. It was excavated by Sir Aural Syien in 1924. It was visited in 1950 by Fair resemblance with that found in Harapa. Unfortunately, the mound has been completely destroyed by the local people. 

9.   POPULATION SIZE, GROWTH AND DISTRIBUTION

9.1. Population Size and Growth

The population of Zhob district is 275.14 thousands in 1998 as compared to 213.29 thousands in 1981 recording an increase of 29.00 percent over the last 17 years i.e. 1981-98. The increase of 113.50 and 99.36 percent was observed during intercensal period 1972-81 (8.46 years) and 1961-72 (11.67 years) respectively. Overall the population of the district has increased rapidly showing substantial increase of 449.07 percent during the last 37 years i.e. 1961-98 which is five and a half times.

The total are of the district is 20297 square kilometers having population density 13.6 persons per square per square kilometer in March 1998.

9.2. Rural/Urban Distribution

The rural population of the district is 231.30 thousands constituting 84.07 percent of the total population. The average annual growth rate of rural population during 1981-98 is 1.44 percent which was 9.74 and 5.96 percents during 1972-81 and 1961-72 respectively. The urban population of the district is 43.84 thousands constituting 15.93 percent of the total population. The average annual growth rate of the urban population during 1981-98 is 1.88 percent which was 7.52 and 6.76 percent during 1972-81 and 1961-72 respectively.

10. RELIGION

The population of the district is almost Muslim. They constitute 99.43 percent of the total population, with a breakup of 99.67 percent in rural and 98.15 percent in urban areas. There are very few Christians, Hindu, Qadiani/Ahmadi, Scheduled Caste and other communities which are only 0.58 percent of the total population.

11. MOTHER TONGUE

The predominant mother tongue of the population of the district is Pushto which is spoken by 96.82 percent of the total population followed by Saraki at 1.27 percent. The proportion of the population speaking Pushto is higher in rural areas at 99.65 percent as compared to 81.93 percent in urban areas. In contrast the proportion of Saraiki is higher in urban areas at 7.71 percent in comparison to that in rural areas at 0.05 percent. The proportion of the population speaking Urdu, Punjabi, Sindhi, Balochi and others is 1.91 percent.

12.  LITERACY AND EDUCATION ATTAINMENT

12.1. Literacy

The literacy ratio of the district among the population aged 10 years and above is 16.78 percent, 47.84 percent is urban areas and 10.40 percent in rural areas. The male literacy ratio is 24.53 percent compared to 6.90 percent for female.

12.2. Education Attainment

A large variation exists in the ratio of educated persons by sex and area. The percentage of educated males is 23.72 percent and of females, 6.33 percent. It is 47.65 percent for urban areas as against 9.58 for rural areas.

PROJECT (HDF) RELATED INFORMATIONS

HDF Zhob Region was started in February 2001. Before starting the regular program, HDF had built a delay action dam in the area and as a result the rapport with the community was developed very well. HDF started its regular program in Zhob Region with one HDF unit (1,000 households) covering a population of 13,000.

The situation of Zhob Region was totally different as compared to other regions of HDF. Poverty and illiteracy are the major problems of the area. Agriculture and Livestock are the main and important source of livelihood for the rural population.

Severe drought in the past few years has affected the whole area very badly. Orchards have dried up and livestock has died due to lack of drinking water and unavailability of fodder. People are mostly religious minded, conservative and are deprived of basic health and education facilities.

In the beginning, the community protested strongly the HDF program because the area is under the strong influence of the Taliban. The conservative leaders were totally against the women participation in the program. It was a great challenge for HDF to start its interventions in this rigid area. The regional team made all possible efforts through contacts with the influential and through repeatedly program introductions. Through continuous efforts, majority of the community were taken in to confidence and program was started. Today there are not only the male DOs in the region but there are also female DOs.

MAJOR ACHIEVEMENTS AS OF APRIL 2002

  The progress of the Zhob  Region as of April 2002  was as follow:

ACTIVITIES	As of April 2002
# of units	1
Households covered	1,000
Population covered	13,000
# of DOs formed	19
Membership of DOs	296
DO savings	15,771
Credit Disbursement	101,910
Enterprises established	9
Community members trained	38
# of Schools opened	14
School enrollment	348

STAFF AT REGIONAL OFFICE