History of swat

History of swat



Swat, “Switzerland of the East”, Udayana (the garden) of ancient Hindu tales, and
“Garden of Ashoka”, is a paradise on earth. Blessed with lush green valleys having snow clad
peaks in the background, crystalline waters of Swat River originating from Ushu Range,
beautiful murmuring brooks which trickle down from all directions, whispering pines as the
summer breeze pass through them, fruit laden orchards which fill the valleys with soft
aroma, SWAT is a poet’s dream, hiker’s delight, archeologist’s heaven, historian’s enigma
and tourist’s Shangri La. The valley is worth visiting throughout the year, may it be the
heavenly springs, cool summers, elegant falls or the snowy winters. The nature has unfurled
every colour in the seasons of Swat.

Swat is located in Malakand Division- a region in Khyber Pakhtun Khawa Province of
Pakistan, comprising Chitral, Dir Upper, Dir Lower, Swat, Buner, Shangla districts and
Malakand Agency. It is a broad fertile valley at the foothills of famous Hindukush Mountains
which stretch nearly 200km from the Malakand Pass to the high reaches of Swat Kohistan.
Located at a distance of 250 kms from Islamabad, it takes a journey of five to six hours along
historic Grand Trunk Road to reach Swat. The total area of Swat is 3798 sq. km with a
population of 170, 0000. Its altitude varies from 2500 ft. to 19400 ft. above sea level. The main towns of the Valley are Mingora, Saidu Sharif, Barikot, Khawazakhela and Matta. Mingora is the District Headquarters of Swat. Flanking Swat are equally beautiful
districts of Shangla and Buner. Geographically contiguous, these districts further galvanize
the rich culture and beauty of Swat region.

Swat has rich history which dates back to two thousand years. It was invaded by
Alexander the Great in 327 B.C. Various historical accounts suggest that, Alexander the
Great crossed River Swat and subdued the locals at places where today Barikot and Udigram
exist. It is also mentioned that, he married a local woman following a royal norm. The
Greek power and influence introduced new ethnic and cultural elements in the region. His
successors ceded Swat to the Mauryan Dynasty. By the middle of the 2nd century BC, the
Kushan dynasty began to gain dominance. In early 3rd century BC, Buddhism was
introduced into Gandhara (region comprising Peshawar Valley, Taxila and Swat Valley)
during the region of Ashoka. During 1st century AD, Gandhara become the second holy
land of Buddhism and experienced a unique economic and culture flowering, with a
flourshing trade with Rome and China. This interaction resulted in the birth of Gandhara
Culture. The historical signatures of these times are abundantly found in Swat in the form of
ruins, rock paintings archaeological sites. At an early stage, Swat was a centre of Hinayana
Buddhism and the Mahayana school that developed from it. The Kushan dynasty ruled for four centuries till it was over run by the White Huns in 5th century AD and the glory of the
Gandhara era came to an end.

In the beginning of the 11th century AD, Mahmud of Ghazni advanced through Dir
and invaded Swat, thus Muslim period of Swat began. At the end of 15th century the Valley
was invaded by the Afghan Yusufzais who migrated from Afghanistan due to Mughal
Emperor Babar’s advancing onslaught. When Mughal Dynasty was fading, Sikhs tried to
conquer this area but they could not consolidate due to annexation of Punjab by British in
1849. The region kept simmering under various tribal leaders who kept engaging British
whenever opportunity arose. Hostilities erupted into open war in 1897 with the Malakand
uprising and in the latest of series, British occupied Chitral, Malakand and Chakdara after
fierce battles. Sir Winston Churchill, as a young lieutenant, participated in these battles. A
piquet sited by him at Chakdara still exists and is famous as “Churchill Piquet”. Chakdara
was the furthest British garrison in Swat.

In 1915 the Swati tribes elected a central leader and Swat emerged as an independent
state. Abdul Jabar Shah was the first ruler of the State (1915-1917). He initiated the
administrative system of the State. This system was modified, developed and refined by his
successors at the seat of the State, Miangul Abdul Wadud 1917- 1949 [the grandson of the
Akhund of Swat], and Miangul Jahanzeb who ruled Swat from 1949 to 1969. In 1947, Swat joined Pakistan at the eve of independence. The Wali’s sovereignty was finally abolished in
1969 when Swat formally merged became part of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.

The people of Swat are mainly Pakhtuns, Yusufzais, Kohistanis, Gujars and Awans.
The main language is Pushto whereas Kohistani and Torwali are spoken in the areas where
Kohistanis live. People of Swat are known for good manners, politeness and hospitality. The
mystery and romance surrounding these wonderful people has withstood the vicissitudes of
time.

Swat was a popular tourist resort before the Taliban’s brief hold. Tourism is again
picking up after successful clearing of area by Pakistan Army. A magnet for hippies in the
1970, it’s a still a big attraction for domestic tourists who flock here every summer for the
clean air and fine landscapes. Apart from its beauty, green Alps like mountains, fast flowing
rivers teeming with fish and natural scenery the area has rich flora and fauna.
The valley is famous for a wide variety of delicious fruits its produces. It is one of the
major fruit producing areas of Pakistan, where 70 per cent of alpine fruits are grown. It is
famous for its orchards of high quality apples, peaches, apricots, plums and persimmons.
Wild olives grow in abundance and experiments to graft these with European olives are
being successfully done. Agriculture and fruit orchards are the main sources of income for
the locals. The rich fauna of valley includes Markhurs, Himalayan ibexes, Urials, black and 
brown bears, leopards ,snow leopards, wolfs ,monkeys, chakors , trout and other varieties
of fish.

The local culture is pre dominantly Pushtoon and follows the traditional honour code
known as Pakhtunwali. The main tenets of 'Pakhto' or formally known as Pakhtunwali are:
Melmastiaya means Hospitality and asylum at any cost to all guests seeking help : Badal
means Justice or taking revenge which is invoked irrespective of time and cost
involved:Nang means honour and requires defense of 'Zan, Zar and Zameen'
(Women/Family, Treasury and Property). Pashtuns are independent minded and there is a
lot of internal competition. Most decisions in tribal life are made by a 'Jirga' or 'Senate' of
elected elders and wise men. However, Pashtun society is also marked by its matriarchal
tendencies. Folktales involving reverence for Pashtun mothers and matriarchs are common
and are passed down from parent to child through a rich oral tradition. Kohistani who are
the indigenous population of Swat are divided into many tribes. The population of both
Abasin Kohistan and Swat Kohistan has many offshoots. They inhabit mostly the northern
valleys of Swat. In addition, a sizeable segment of local society is called Gujar- in recognition
of profession. Gujars are of two types: Proper Gujars, who keep buffaloes and cows and
“Ajar”, who are also Gujar but keep sheep and goats. They are called Ajar, because they are
seasonal migrants. With the onset of winter scenes of Ajar Gujars moving with their large
herds and meager belongings towards down country for warmer places is a common sight.

Swat can be conveniently divided into four distinct zones each having its own
significance and attractions throughout the year. These zones include; the Malakand-Barikot
areas having sites of archeological and historical significance, the urban center of Swat –
Mingora, famous for its sprawling bazaars, Matta-Shaur-Piochar and Biha areas which house
fruit laden orchards, lush green mountains and breath taking scenes especially of fall and the
fourth zone is of the areas comprising Kalam-Madyan famous for their unspoiled beauty,
serene lakes and tranquil forests.

A trip to Swat starts by crossing over Malakand Pass at an altitude of 2700 ft. At the
top is a Pakistan Army Fort which guards the entrance to the valley. The fort gained its
name during the uprising of 1897 when a British Battalion of Sikh Infantry faced 10,000
tribal warriors. At the Malakand top one can see Swat canal in the valley below. The Canal
was built by British to channel water from Swat River through a tunnel under the Malakand
Pass to irrigate the plains around Mardan.

Next to fort is Historical Town of Chakdara. The famous Chakdara Bridge built by
British in 1896 was washed away by floods of 2010.The biggest attraction of Chakdara is
Churchill Piquet on the top of Damkot Hill, overlooking Chakdara fort and bridge. It has a
commanding view of river from Malakand Pass to Barikot. The other attractions include
Chakdara Museum, Chat Pat a Buddhist monastery site and Andan Dheri Stupa. On the way
to Mingora, one can visit Top Darra Bhuddist Stupa nestled into a secluded valley on the side of Haibatgaram Ridge. Haibatgram also offers an enormous Hindu Shahi fort. Further
towards Landakai there is a Nimogram Buddist Monestary and stupa site worth visiting.

At Barikot town the road from the Karakar Pass, Buner and Ambela Pass joins the
road from Malakand Pass. The most scenic route begins here. A large number of carvings
and stupas are found in this area. Shingerdar Stupa near Barikot, Gogdara rock engravings
near Udegram and Raja Gira’s Castles are few to mention.

As one nears Mingora, one can make out that he is transiting into another zone.
Mingora and Saidu Sharif are the main twin towns of this region located at 3250 ft.
Mingora is a historical city with old market and a big bazaar, government offices and
numerous hotels. It’s the geographical and political center of Swat. Mingora offers an
interesting “Swat Museum”, the Tomb of Akund of Swat and the archaeological remains of
the Butkara Buddhist Stupa. Its bustling bazaars filled with local handicrafts, semi precious
stones like Swat emeralds, beautiful tribal jewelery, dry fruit and a wide range of local
cuisine can mesmerize any tourist.

Marghazar and Islampur are two beautiful small villages at the top of Saidu
Valleys. Islampur is famous for handloom weaving and is an ideal place to buy hand woven
shawls and blankets.

Kabal is a nearby town across the River Swat which offers 18 holes golf course. As
one moves out of Mingora towards Khwazakhela, first town which comes is Manglaur
which is gateway to the Skiing resort of Malam Jabba. Though the facility was destroyed by
Taliban but now is being restored.

The Swat Valley imperceptibly transforms as one ascends towards north. Ahead of
Manglaur the area is generally called upper Swat. In mid-winters upper Swat is covered
with snow above Bahrain, but in summers one can drive up to and beyond Kalam and from
there trek north to either the Chitral Valley or the Gilgit Valley. This area is again different
from lower Swat zones. Kalam- Madyan zone is characterized by wild beauty. Enroute to
Kalam, just 30 kms from Mingora on the banks of River Swat, is located small town of
Khwazakhela. It is a bustling bazaar of upper Swat. The main bazaar street offers carved
woodwork, semi precious stone and embroided fabrics. From Khawazakhela a metalled
road leads to Shangla and further joins Karakoram Highway. Along this route one can
explore the beautiful and less travelled areas of Aloch, Puran and Shahpur Valleys.

As one continues the journey towards north from Khawazakhela on a detour from
main road is located Miandam. It is a small summer resort ten kilometers up a steep side
valley and 56 kilometers from Saidu Sharif. It is a good resort for walkers and hikers.

Madyan is a small town at 4500 ft and about 55 Km from Mingora, here the
mountains close in and the road snuggles with River Swat. At 4335 ft above sea level,
Madyan is a nice place to visit. Antiques, shawls, traditional embroidery, tribal jewellery,
carved wood and antique or reproduced coins are sold along the main street. The area north
of Madyan is known as Swat Kohistan.

Further north is Bahrain, again at 4500 ft height. Bahrainis are a mix of
Pashtuns and Kohistanis. It is another popular riverside tourist resort with bazaars worth
exploring for their handicrafts. Some of the houses have ancient carved wooden doors,
pillars and balconies. As one moves further north and gains an altitude of 6800 feet comes
Kalam Town. In 19th century Kalam was capital of an independent state, however later it
became part of Chitral and then Swat after independence. In Kalam the Ushu and Utror
rivers join to form the Swat River. From here one gets a breath-taking view of the snowcapped
Mount Falaksir (19,415 ft). Twenty five kilometers further from Kalam is the
Mahodand Valley. It has the famous Mahodhand Lake. The valleys of Ushu, Utror and
Gabral brown trout is found in abundance.

The upper Swat’s less explored areas lie on the western side of River Swat which
includes areas like Matta and Shaur Valley including Piochar, Biha and Roringar valleys. As
one crosses Khawazakhela Bridge over River Swat he enters into rapidly expanding town of
Matta which is famous for its beautiful plum orchards. Moving north from Matta at a distance of approx 9 kms is located Biakand Valley which again is full of orchards and pine
forests. Further north is the Shaur Valley which is worth seeing in fall. Its autumn colours
are spectacular. Piochar is a small village nestled in the mountains of Shaur Valley. Full of
thick vegetation and wild flowers in summers the Valley is ideal for nature lovers. Next on
the route is Gwalrai famous for apple orchards. It is located at the banks of narrow channel
having strong water current .From Gwalrai a track leads to Biha on the left and another one
leads to Qadir Banda which links Swat with Dir. A straight track from Gwalari leads to
Roringar in the north. Roringar is surrounded by high mountains. Ahead of Roringar a
track leads to beautiful lakes located in Dir Agency. This area is heaven for trekkers and
hikers.

Source: http://www.defence.pk/forums/pakistans-war/112025-swat-story.html#ixzz2h42Y7mzA